食之有情，味之飄零：逯耀東的飲饌書寫

Foods with Feeling and the Evanescence of Flavours: The Dietary Writings of Lu Yao-Dong

本文從逯耀東的生命感受出發，探討逯耀東的飲撰書寫。對逯耀東而言，飲食書寫並非將食物作客觀描寫，只是形容食材新鮮與烹調、技藝與美味而已，他更要將飲食上升到文化的層次，但這樣的文化層次，事實上正與逯耀東生命的存在感受有關。於是，他從食物中吃到了「情」，再從「情」看到了「苦」，這種苦是人生飄零滄桑之苦，是生命的閒愁滋味，而食之有情，味之飄零，原來正是他飲食散文的基調。

This paper revolves around the nostalgic life of Lu Yao-Dong, as shown in his dietary writings. For Lu, writing about food was not just a simple matter of paying close attention to ingredients, cooking methods, technical skills, and flavours. He was intensely concerned about upgrading the diet culture. In fact, his writings reflect also his nostalgic feelings and memories. Thus, from sensory perceptions of food, he captures the nostalgic life full of affectionate feelings, shown in his dietary essays as an infrastructure mode.