味覺的記憶──周作人的飲食書寫

The Memory of Tastes—Jou Tzuoh Ren's Writings About Food and Drink

中國的飲食文化博大精深，自古以來，珍饈美食在文學家的創作中不曾缺席，文人們或藉食物宣揚文化藝術、風俗習慣之美，或寄託去國懷鄉之思，或反映社會變遷之跡，呈現出歷代文人在生活美學上的執著探求。周作人的飲食書寫與中國古代談吃論喝的文士最大不同之處，在於態度問題。他總是能從最平凡的民間小食、土生土長的野菜中品味出人生，並藉以寄託思鄉憶鄉的情懷。

Chinese culture of food and drink is abundant and profound. Since ancient times, splendid cuisine has never been absent from literary creative writings. Writers describe food and drink to propagate art and culture, and the beauty of custom, to express their homesickness while abroad, or exhibit the change of the society. This shows the Chinese literary men from age to age were interested in this aesthetics of daily living. Jou Tzuoh Ren's Writings about Food and Drink differ from ancient Chinese literary men's in that he can taste life from the simple food among ordinary people, and thus gives expression to his homesickness.