北大秦簡《製衣》裙類裁製、穿著等問題補說──以考辨秦國行用之尺度及布幅為基礎的討論

A Supplementary Discussion on the Cutting and Wearing of Skirts in Making Clothes in the Qin Bamboo Slips Collected by Peking University: Discussion Based on an Examination of the Length of a Foot and Cloth Width Used in the Qin State

北京大學藏秦簡牘中，有一篇題為《折（製）衣》的文獻，記載了多種服裝的尺寸和裁法，對於研究中國古代服飾之各類問題，具有重要價值。此種裁製衣物的實用說明書，應歸於《漢書‧藝文志》數術略雜占類，按《四庫全書總目》分類，《製衣》則歸屬於譜錄類。即便將視野擴大至中國所有的古書，《製衣》也是極其寶貴稀有的文獻。前行研究者對於《製衣》所載各類服裝之復原嘗試，對於理解本篇內容，助益甚大。然而，各家的復原方案往往並不相同，此一問題牽涉到秦國行用之尺度及布幅，就裙類而言，又與是否需要添加正裁裁片有關，凡此皆須加以考辨釐清。另外，前人對於裙式的還原，以及所繪製的圖解，乃至於單裙的穿著方式等問題，仍有需要補充修正之處，亦有待補論。本文將針對前述《製衣》中與裙類相關之議題逐一探討。

The Qin bamboo slips collected by Peking University include a document titled Making Clothes, which details garment sizes and cutting methods. This practical manual is of great value for the study of ancient Chinese clothing. It should be classified under“miscellaneous divinations”in the Han Shu and as a“genealogy”according to the Si Ku Quan Shu Catalog. Among ancient Chinese texts, Making Clothes is both rare and significant. While scholars have attempted to reconstruct the garments described, interpretations vary, especially regarding the Qin measurement system and cloth width. In the case of skirts, additional fabric requirements further complicate restoration efforts. Moreover, existing illustrations and interpretations of skirt styles and wearing methods remain incomplete. This paper focuses on clarifying these skirt-related issues in Making Clothes, providing corrections, additions, and new analysis where necessary.