族裔–文化經濟、謀生策略與認同協商：臺北都會區東南亞風味餐飲店個案研究

Survival Strategies and Identity Negotiation in Ethno-Cultural Economy: Case Studies of Southeast Asian Flavored Restaurants in Taipei

飲食是人類維生的根本，也是建構和爭議文化認同的核心，從而牽連起複雜的社會關係，乃至於謀生策略和人際支援網絡。台灣從早期有零星的「華僑」來台和僑生開設東南亞風味餐館維生，到目前一方面有全球化下消費異國風情的都市時尚餐飲產業，另一方面有東南亞裔婚姻移民經營的風味餐飲店，使得飲食實踐、餐飲產業和身分認同的形構益趨混雜異質。本文以台北都會區東南亞餐飲店為例，探討不同類型移民的謀生策略和認同協商。具體而言，本文從移民經營餐飲業的契機與動機、經營方式，乃至於飲食店本身做為連結社會網絡和各種資源的場域，討論移民的謀生策略及社會處境。此外，本文尙聚焦於「菜單」和口味的調理、改換和堅持，以此做為觀察認同協商的關鍵。最後，本文拉高到當前都市發展趨向的層次，討論結合經濟營生與文化認同的異國風味餐飲店，做為「文化經濟」之重要元素的可能影響，並介入有關「族裔經濟」的討論。文化經濟和族裔經濟的連結，正是本文建立分析觀點的依據。

Foods are not only vital to human subsistence, but also fields for constituting and contesting cultural identity, weaving survival strategies with multiple social relations and networks. This article discusses these issues through three types of Southeast Asian flavored restaurants in Taipei which are run respectively by Oversea Chinese, Southeast Asia marriage immigrants and local Taiwanese. Specifically, through materials obtained form in-depth interviews and field observations, the author explores the motives, resources and strategies for running these restaurants, in order to understand these owners’ social situation and cultural identity negotiation. This article then focuses upon menus and food taste as keys to the negotiation of cultural or ethnic identity, and arguing that we can deal with this issue with two related but different concepts -- cultural economy and ethnic economy -- which can be combined into ethno-cultural economy.