臺灣客家餐飲產業與客家飲食的品質建構：以大臺北地區的客家餐館為例

Hakka Restaurant Industry and the Quality Construction of Hakka Cuisine: A Case Study of Hakka Restaurants in the Greater Taipei

本研究旨在探究大臺北地區客家餐館的經營者，在現今餐飲產業競逐日益動態多元的飲食場域中，如何對客家餐飲的產品與服務展開系列開創與持續重構，並使得客家飲食的品質特色能在大臺北都會區持續維繫並創新開展。臺灣飲食場域的運作，自1990年代起逐步出現劇烈的轉變，面對消費公眾逐漸擴大的食物品質需求與餐飲產業日益多樣發展的特色產品提供，各系特色飲食如何參照舊有形勢的結構來回應新的飲食場域動態，並使其品質特色能持續維繫並創新開展的探索顯得日漸迫切。以密集都會區塊、較高教育水準居民與多元文化組合為核心特質的大臺北地區，其地域內客家餐館的發展對整體臺灣客家餐飲產業的運作型態有獨特的重要性，對延續開展客家飲食的品質特色走向也有象徵上的關鍵性。研究方式除實地調查客家餐館的經營實況並深入訪談其發展歷程外，並系統地檢視大臺北客家餐館所公開呈現的網路相關報導與內容。通過以上整體資料的多方位解析，研究顯示大臺北客家餐館主要在三組品質面向進行開創與重構：一、經營型態的定位：「懷舊、地方、家常」或「現代、國際、精緻」；二、消費客群的取向：「傳統客群」或「新興市場」；三、菜色風格的走向：「道地口味」或「特色美味」。

Since the mid-1980s in Taiwan, the Hakka cuisine with ethnic and local characteristics raised rapidly. It also became a significant food product for the restaurant industry to provide and an important food option for customers to select and experience in Taiwan. Since the 1990s, the Hakka cuisine played a more significant role in constructing local Hakka image and gradually became the cultural properties in and strategic tools for local development in a new era. In response to increasingly expanding public customers’ demand for multi-dimensions, multilevels, and multi-types of qualities in food, the Hakka restaurants in the Greater Taipei—where is mainly characterized by a dense population, well-educated residents, and multicultural combination of communities—have the distinctive importance to the mode of operations and characteristic feature of Hakka restaurant industry in Taiwan. In order to learn the sketch of Taiwan’s Hakka food industry and explore the quality construction which is increasingly associated with Hakka cuisines, the research takes Hakka restaurants in the Greater Taipei as major cases and examines these cases closely by employing a variety of research methods such as in-depth interviews, content analysis and field survey. In addition to conducting field investigation on their current business operation and examines their information on the Internet, this paper also interviews with the owners of Hakka restaurants in the Greater Taipei. Based on the multi-dimension analysis of the Hakka restaurants in the Greater Taipei, this paper tries to illustrate how the Hakka restaurants in the Greater Taipei demonstrate series types of developments and continuing reconstructions in food qualities, and how the quality constructions of Hakka cuisine make adjustments to other competitors and subtle transformations in the context of dynamic cultural economy.