牛的符號世界：牛肉在臺灣的廣告、消費和生產問題（1895-1937）

The Symbolic World of Beef: The Advertisements, Consumption and Production of Beef in Taiwan (1895-1937)

近代以後日本人為追求西化和富強轉向肉食，內地人來到臺灣，於是成了首批實踐 文明開化牛肉觀的消費者。本文從符號學觀點討論牛肉的生產和消費問題，內容分三部 分。首先，檢視廣告圖像如何再現美味的「神戶牛」，本文發現不論內容是否屬實，廣 告的圖像和文案似乎皆深具吸引力。其次，神戶牛肉在臺灣大多是冒牌貨，與「神戶牛」 缺乏明確的定義有關，本文追湖牛的產地原鄉，解析符號與指涉物的關係。最後，探討 逐年減少的臺灣黃牛，對內地人而言黃牛肉在美味的意義上是神戶牛肉和內地牛肉的 對比項，不過，其存在也解決了認同與需求之間落差的問題。

The aim of this article is to examine the semiotics of cattle and the beef consumption of Japanese people in colonial Taiwan. Three aspects of the symbolic world are discussed. First, how did the advertising images reproduce the Kobe beef cattle that produced delicious meat? This study finds that the cattle images and proposal of beef in advertisement were attractive to Japanese people, regardless of whether the content was true or not. Secondly, Kobe beef were mostly counterfeit goods in Taiwan. Perhaps the reason is lack of obvious definition of ''Kobe beef''. This article will trace the origin of the cattle's origin and explore the relationship between symbols and the reference objects. Finally, why were Taiwan Yellow cattle decreasing year on year? It was a symbolic comparison of Kobe beef and Japanese beef in the sense of deliciousness. However, the problem of the gaps between identity and market demand of Taiwan had been solved due to the mass production of Yellow cattle beef.