山普拉墓地出土漢晉時期織金織物的分析與研究

Research on the Gold-Inwoven Textile of the Han and Jin Dynasty Unearthed at the Sampula Cemetery

山普拉墓地出土的「片金棉布枕」是目前中國出土的年代較早的織金織物之一，對研究唐代以前的織金工藝具有重要的意義。本文採用超景深三維顯微光學系統、掃描電子顯微鏡（SEM）、傅裡葉紅外光譜（FT-IR）、電子探針──波譜儀（EPWDS）等檢測技術對「片金棉布枕」進行了分析。結果表明，「片金棉布枕」的枕首織物為絹，枕身織物為織金罽；織金罽上的金線是以亞麻纖維作芯線的撚金線，金線上金箔成分為含Au 64%、Ag 35%。雖然「片金棉布枕」上的織金罽具有明顯的中西亞風格，但是諸多跡象表明「片金棉布枕」很可能為新疆當地生產。本文將「片金棉布枕」與唐代織金工藝水準較高的法門寺出土織金錦進行比較，從中探索早期織金工藝發展的脈絡。

One of the oldest gold-inwoven textiles of China, a pillow, was unearthed at the Sampula Cemetery and has played an important role in research of traditional Chinese textile production. A 3D Super Depth Digital Micro-optical System, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometer (FTIR) and EPWDS were employed to identify and characterize the specimen. The results showed that both ends of the pillow were made of silk, while the middle section was made of gold-inwoven textile. Gold strips wrapped around a linen core yarn. The composition of the gold foil is Au 64%, Ag 35%. Although the specimen has an obvious affinity with the style associated with the Western Regions, abundant indications suggest that the pillow may have been produced by local people. By comparing the specimen with gilt brocade from the Tang Dynasty in the Famen Temple Museum, we try to explore the development of techniques for woven gold.