鹿谷凍頂烏龍茶產業發展與產地認證的探討

Exploration of Industry Development and Origin Certification of Lugu Dongding Wulong Tea

產地認證是台灣地區推動農業在地食物的重要政策，而鹿谷凍頂烏龍茶是台灣第一個通過茶葉產地認證者。本文主要以地方鑲嵌、另類農業食物網絡兩個植基於在地經營與銷售的連結觀點，探討鹿谷凍頂烏龍茶的產業發展與產地認證。本文研究發現：首先茶葉品質鑲嵌於地方的自然條件（低溫高濕與土壤）以及製茶技術；而地方鑲嵌的促成，也受到外地社會建構的限制（高山茶的衝擊），不一定僅於地方的制約。其次，另類食物網絡的面對面連結，早已存在於茶葉買賣的試喝文化，含在地茶農與外地茶商、外地消費者之間，非單純的生產者與消費者的連結；另也彰顯面對面的連結除了人與人，更包含人與物（茶葉）的關係。最後，鹿谷凍頂烏龍茶產地認證的產地之名，一方面遭受高山茶的衝擊，另一方面全國性鹿谷農會茶比賽之名聲建構，補充了產地認證的地方名聲與穩住固定的消費口味。 Origin certification is one of the important policies of Local Agro-food in Taiwan. The first tea awarded origin certification is Lugu Dongding Wulong tea. This study explores the development and the certification of tea industry in Lugu through place embeddedness and alternative agro-food networks (AAFNs) perspectives. The research has 3 conclusions. Firstly, tea quality is embedded by local natural condition (climate and soil) and tea-making skills. but the enable of place embeddedness could become constrains from external social construction rather than from the local. Secondly, Face-toface social relation construction in alternative agro-food networks exists in “complimentary drink” tea culture between local farmers and tea dealers or external tea dealers and external consumers, instead of the pure connection between producers and consumers. Finally, Lugu tea industry and origin certification was impacted by mountain tea, but the local reputation construction of tea competition, held by Lugu farmers’ association, supplements local reputation of origin certification and firms the flavor of consumers.