從食譜看宋人的養生與食療──以《山家清供》為例

Recipes, health keeping and diet therapy of People in the Sung Dynasty ─ taking“Shan Jia Qing Gong”as an example

中國古代食譜雖興起於六朝，但宋代以前的食譜均已亡佚，自宋代以後，食譜不僅數量增加，而且得以傳世，更重要的是提升飲食的層次，兼具養生與食療的效果，尤以林洪的《山家清供》最具代表性。該食譜共記載104道餚饌，內容提及養生食療的有32道，約佔全書的三分之一。林洪所選用的食材以山林野菜為主，與書名相呼應。同時，僅用簡單的調味，簡易的烹調，卻可變化出飯、粥、羹、麵、菜、糕、餅、餛飩等不同形式。飲食養生與食療並非亂吃亂補，而是講究因時而饍，飲食禁忌更是必須特別留意，否則不但沒有達到效果，反而傷身，林洪在其食譜亦有記載。因此本篇文章便以林洪的《山家清供》為例，探討宋人的飲食養生與食療。

Ancient Chinese recipes originated in the Six Dynasties, however, recipes written before the Sung Dynasty have been lost. Since the Sung Dynasty, there have been more and more recipes that have emphasized on nutrition, diet. Most representative of this trend is the ”Shan Jia Qing Gong” written by Hong Lin. This recipe book contains a total of 104 dishes, 32 of which are related to nutrition and diet. This section occupies about one third of this book. The author, Hong Lin, mainly selected local vegetables for his dishes, a fact which is reflected the title of this book. He created a great variety of dishes ranging from congee, stews, noodles, vegetable dishes, cakes, pastries all the way to dumplings. All of these were to be made with simple seasonings and cooking methods. These principles of nutrition and diet were to be followed. People were to partake of particular dishes at particular times. They were also to be mindful of nutritional/dietary contradictions, lest their food should lose its nutritional benefits or even become harmful. These ideas were all addressed in detail in Hong Lin's book. In this chapter, we will be discussing the nutrition and diet of the people of the Sung Dynasty.