近代莨紗綢的興衰與流行樣貌（1868-1949）

The Prosperity and Decline of Modern Gambiered Guangdong Silk and its Stylish Appearance(1868-1949)

薯榔是一種多年生的山地藤本植物，其塊根富含單寧與膠質，有使被染物不吸水、不易腐的作用，過往除漁戶用來染衣服、魚網、船帆之外，廣東還以含鐵質的烏泥媒染，製成夏季絲織品莨紗綢，因涼爽不黏膚、易洗快乾，曾熱銷國內與東南亞，流行一時。這樣的衣料在本文中以莨紗綢統稱，但依品種，有香雲紗、拷綢、荔枝綢、黑膠綢等多種別名，依時、依地、依人，對這些名稱的定義也有不同。莨紗綢的流行因鴉片戰爭後廣東蠶絲業的幾次發展而奠下了基礎，於同治年間在廣東迅速普及，至晚於光緒年間在其他地區亦有流行。為適應社會各階層，莨紗綢貴賤都有，從富貴之家到平民百姓都能各取所需，還有中上層人士因此衣料在下階層的受歡迎而對它感到不屑。又其工藝條件特殊，廣東以外的地區生產不易，日人幾度企圖仿製並不成功，濃厚的地域性，使它在提倡國貨的愛國運動中，屢被提及。1930年代之後因世界經濟危機、戰爭破壞、人造絲傾銷、審美觀改變等原因基本走向沒落，但也因具有防空作用、取代因原料短缺而價昂的棉布市場等因素，而區域性流行一時。

Dye yam is a perennial vine, whose roots are rich in tannin and colloid. In the past, because the non-absorbent, non-perishable characters, the dyed cloth was used by fishing households to dye clothes, fishing nets, sails. In addition, Guangdong people also used it with black mud containing iron mordant to dye silk. The dyed silk was cool and non-sticky, washable and quick drying, had sales of domestic and Southeast Asia, it was once very popular. This kind of fabric material was generally called Gambiered Guangdong Silk in this article. However, it got many other nicknames depending on the fabric types. The definitions of those names were slightly varied at different ages, places and even by different peoples. The development of Guangdong silk industry after the Opium War established the foundation of prosperity of Gambiered Guangdong Silk. It was spread very quickly in Guangdong during Tongzhi period, and also in some cities outside Guangdong no later than Guangxu period. To satisfy all the market needs, there are many kinds of Gambiered Guangdong Silks, ranging from low-priced to expensive ones. Some people with upper-middle classes even despise the phenomenon of the popularity of it among the lower class. Limited to the special technique, it is difficult to produce the Gambiered Guangdong Silk in the places other than Guangdong. Japanese had tried to reproduce it for several times, but never worked. This kind of fabric was also treated as a symbol of patriotism, and was often mentioned in the Movement of Chinese Products. After 1930s, basically, the market started to decline becauses of the world economic crises, effects of war, dumping of artificial silk and changed aesthetic standards. It still kept popular locally in some areas for a while, because of its air defense effect and the replacement of the cotton market that become much more expensive by short of material.