十九世紀恰克圖貿易的俄羅斯紡織品

The Kyakhta Trade in Russian Textiles in the Nineteenth Century

在十八世紀的中俄恰克圖貿易，中國輸出大量的藍京布、上海梭布等，俄羅斯則輸出毛皮。十九世紀中國的布疋輸出量減少，而茶葉成為主要輸出品。俄羅斯方面，毛皮產量減少，轉而將普魯士和波蘭毛織品輸往中國，十九世紀中葉俄羅斯紡織工業發展，生產大量毛織品和布疋輸往中國。歐洲商產的呢絨和棉織品逐漸受到俄國生產的紡織品排擠，到1840年代經恰克圖貿易的外國紡織品只佔2%。俄國紡織品中，毛織品因價格低廉又渾厚細密，廣受歡迎，甚至比英美產品更具競爭力。十九世紀時，由俄羅斯進口的回絨多達數百萬俄尺，回布亦有數十萬俄尺，俄羅斯的紡織品遍及中國北方各城市。清朝政府規定蒙古王公年班圍班請安時，俱穿石青馬褂，親王文武官員亦穿石青馬褂，連廣東巡撫等高官在慶典場合都鄭重地穿上俄國呢子製作的袍子。中國偏好俄國呢子的其他原因是價格低廉、顏色種類齊全、寬幅及包裝花色繁多。俄國進口的回回布也用於騎射用具和包裝器物。可見十九世紀的俄國紡織品在中國普及的程度亦不下於十八世紀俄國進口的毛皮。

Kyakhta served as a center of trade between China and Russia in the eighteenth-century. China exported large quantities of Lanjing and Shanghai textiles, while Russia exported furs. In the nineteenth century, tea largely replaced textiles as China's chief export. Similarly, fur exports from Russia declined in favor of Prussian and Polish wools going to China, while Russia also sent its own wool and textiles to China. European cotton and wool textiles were gradually pushed aside by Russian products, so that by 1840, European textiles only accounted for 2 percent of the Kyakhta trade. The low price and high quality of Russian textiles made them more competitive than their British or American counterparts. Russian textiles flooded the northern China market, with Russian flannel totaling several million Russian meters, and Russian cloth several hundred thousand Russian meters. The Qing court required that all nobles, as well as civil and military officials, wear turquoise riding coats when paying their annual tribute to the court. In addition, Guangdong censors and other high officials wore Russian wool robes for ceremonies. The Chinese particularly liked the Russian robes because they were cheap, colorful, and wide. We can see that the nineteenth century popularity of Russian textiles in China was no less than that of fur and skins in the eighteenth century.