清代宮廷婦女簪飾之流變

The Development of Court Ladies' Hairpins and Accessories during the Qing Dynasty

本文旨在藉梳理清代宮廷婦女簪飾實物及其所附的黃籤記錄，分析簪飾風格的流變脈絡。「簪飾」是指鈿子上的鈿花和二把頭上的髮簪，鈿子和二把頭是清代滿族婦女生活中經常梳理的髮式，其上配戴的簪飾不僅風格隨著時代而變化，簪飾組合的模式往往也有所不同。帝王或掌權者對風格發展具有主導的力量，外在條件的工藝技術、使用材料等亦為影響簪飾樣式變化的因素，至於使用者后妃，雖然沒有物品的產權卻擁有選擇權，諸多條件共同作用下，形成清代宮廷婦女曼妙的面貌。透過對簪飾流變的深度觀察，本文進一步理解清代宮廷如何保持滿人的習俗特色，並對性別議題有更深一層的認識。清代宮廷簪飾依其風格特色分為三期。第一期為康、雍、乾、嘉四朝（1662-1820），此期工藝以金纍絲為主，點翠、嵌寶石為輔，鈿花使用的數量較多。兩把頭的髮髻兩翼服貼頭頂，髮簪尺寸較小。在帝王喜好的主導下，引進了新題材與新材質。第二期道、咸、同三朝（1821-1874），簪飾工藝以點翠為主，金纍絲及寶石為配角。鈿花中的翠條扮演重要角色。兩把頭的髮髻漸挺、加寬，簪飾尺寸變大，或點綴耳挖簪、髮針等。中高層后妃在宮廷管理簪飾財產的規範下，可能存在主動選擇簪飾的機會。第三期光、宣二朝（1875-1911），鈿子增高，兩把頭出現髮架式高聳的大拉翅，簪飾一方面延續前期的大型簪飾，一方面發展出以珍珠、翡翠和寶石為主角，講究生動擬真，具立體感的簪飾。掌握政治實權的慈禧太后可能主導簪飾新風格的發展。

After having organized surviving hairpins and accessories of court ladies from the Qing dynasty, along with their accompanying yellow label records, in this study I analyze their stylistic development over time. The ＂hairpins and accessories＂ here refers to the headdress ornaments and hairpins used to tie the hair into the Banner style. The headdress and Banner hairstyle was a common way for Qing Manchu ladies to tie their hair. The hairpins and accessories that accompanied this hairstyle not only changed over time, but their methods of combination were also different. The emperors and those in power were the driving force behind these stylistic developments, but external conditions of craftsmanship and technique as well as the materials used likewise were elements that played a role in the changes seen in such accessories. As for imperial ladies, they may not have had the authority to have these hairpins and accessories produced, but they had the power to choose from among them. All of these variables helped to produce the graceful image of Qing court ladies. Close observation of developments in hairpins and accessories allows us to understand how the Manchus retained their customs and give us a deeper understanding of related gender issues.