晚明蘇州服俗變遷與經濟發展的關係

The relationship between the changing feature of clothing fashion in Suzhou and the economical development in late Ming Dynasty

明代是中國傳統社會發生顯著變革的時期，中期(1506-1520)以後，新興經濟因素的產生，社會生活、思想觀念的變異，顯示正德前後迥然不同的文化風貌；由明初的保守、沈悶，逐漸趨向革新活躍。這種社會風尚變遷始於以蘇州府、松江府為中心的江南地區。這樣的變遷與此區域蓬勃的工商業經濟發展密切相關。商品經濟的繁榮與新興市鎮的萌生、城市的迅速擴大，又進一步推動工商業更趨活絡。此一情況導致社會經濟結構的調整，連帶影響人們生活方式、思想觀念、心理意識的變化，新社會風尚於焉產生。江南地區可說是明代中後期社會風尚最早發生變化的代表地區，是新興城市生活形態向外傳播的主要源頭與中心。就其變遷方向及內容而言，服飾風尚的轉換是最為顯著而普及的現象。城中市民競相追求華美新異的服裝式樣，出現去樸從豔、違禮逾制情形，奢侈之風瀰漫。這又從另一側面透露出此一區域社會經濟的發展狀況。蘇州向以絲織及棉織業興盛，並商業貿易高度發展而聞名。此一背景與其服飾風尚變遷之間存在相互作用的關係。以下將透過對蘇州地區服飾風尚的更移情況與其經濟發展間相關程度之探討，來考察這一互相影響過程的可能面貌。

Ming Dynasty was a period of dramatic change in traditional Chinese society. Since the mid Ming Dynasty, the generation of budding economic factors, thought, and value system before and after the zheng de(正德)resulted in entirely different cultural aspects, which represented a transition from conservative to active reformation. This change in cultural custom began in Suzhou fu(蘇州府),songjiang fu(松江府), southern bank Yangtze River, and it was closely related to the progressive development in industry. Also, the progression adjusted the local socio-economic structure as well as people's lifestyle, thought, and awareness. From then on, a new society was thus generated. In the whole southern bank Yangtze River, Suzhou was the most typical area where the social custom changed first, and the most significant and common phenomenon was the change in apparel. The citizens purchase on gorgeous clothing, luxurious fashions which went against the ceremonial was full of this area. The change in apparel, therefore, interacted with the socio-economic development. Since Suzhou was a city which was well-known by trading and handicraft industry including silk and cotton textile industry, the following study thus discuss the relationship between clothing fashion and economic development, as well as the features caused by the relationship.