羥基取代之桂皮酸苯乙酯衍生物在化粧品美白應用之評估

Evaluations on the Cosmetic Application of Hydroxyl Substituted 2-Phenylethylcinnamate Derivatives

本研究是以一系列羥基在不同位置與數量取代的桂皮酸苯乙酯衍生物，進行下列測試：一、抑制酪胺酸酶活性試驗，二、紫外線吸收測試，三、抑制MMPs 活性試驗，評估其在美白、防曬的效能及應用於化粧品上之可行性。從結果發現：對抑制酪胺酸酶的美白效果上，化合物3a/b、4a/b、8a/b與酪胺酸、Dopa結構較為相似，具有很好的抑制效果。甲氧基取代羥基後增加吸收紫外線光譜的寬度與能力。在試驗上，4a/b、8a對MMP-9有抑制作用，代表在抗光老化上具有成效。故本實驗中合成的羥基取代之桂皮酸苯乙酯衍生物在應用於化粧品的美白、防曬功能上極具開發潛力。

This research is an examination of derivatives which differs in positions and numbers of hydroxyl groups on a 2-phenylethylcinnamate. It is progressed with the following tests: Frist, the tyrosinase inhibition test, second, the absorbent of the ultraviolet rays and third, MMPs inhibition test in order to evaluate the efficiency of whiting, sun-blocking and the potentiality of uses on cosmetics. Results show out that the result to whiting of the tyrosinase inhibition, the compounds 3a/b, 4a/b, 8a/b have similar structure with tyrosine and Dopa, they have strong inhibition to tyrosinase. It is also found when the compound is substituted by methoxyl, the absorption to ultraviolet increases. In the MMPs inhibition test, compounds 4a/b. 8a inhibits MMP-9, showing influences on anti-photoaging. In summary, the 2-phenylethylcinnamate derivatives that are substituted by hydroxyl has a large potential of the development of the efficiency of whiting and sun-blocking in cosmetics in the future.