當前臺灣薄酒萊新酒的消費剖析

The Analysis on Beaujolais Nouveau Consumption in Contemporary Taiwan

「薄酒萊新酒」（Beaujolais Nouveau）係產於法國薄酒萊地區的葡萄酒，該酒在每年上市之前，各地的賣場、專賣店須配合原產地所規定的時間，以舉辦盛大慶典的手法來行銷酒品。受限於葡萄品種與風土因素，「薄酒萊新酒」保存期限極短，賞味期僅維持至隔年年初，這顯與葡萄酒「越陳越香」的特質不合，也使得「薄酒萊新酒」成為最獨特的法國紅酒品項。標榜新而非陳年的葡萄酒產品卻能造成熱賣，說明此商品的行銷成功地建構出專屬的符號意義，彌補了酒品口感較為薄弱的弱點。當商品符號產生意義時，透過個人去反思其行動，從主體的立場來重新賦予意義，符號與商品的意義便能獨立於商品而存在，就如同Claude Levi-Strauss（1964:89）的名言，「薄酒萊新酒」將會是「適於思索的」。本文透過理論闡述與深度訪談，來剖析臺灣「薄酒萊新酒」消費現象。研究結果顯示，「品酒時尚」的文化價值與象徵意涵在臺灣已深入人心，而「薄酒萊新酒」在各賣場、百貨公司所形塑的慶典風潮，以及在味覺和價格上的平易近人，呼應了消費者所欲追求的時尚符號，使之成為進入葡萄酒殿堂的入門基石。「薄酒萊新酒」的消費符號，幫助消費者建構品味，不僅滿足了消費欲望，也從飲食當中確立自身的社會位置與生活風格空間。

“Beaujolais Nouveau” appears on the market. Due to raw materials and brewing factors， “Beaujolais Nouveau” shelf life is very short， preserving time not until up to the coming spring. Generally speaking， wines that improve with age， but “Beaujolais Nouveau” are quite different to this characteristic. However， “Beaujolais Nouveau” is still hot sale; it is seem to say that there is a series of marketing behind the operation， and making the symbolic of goods to be a significant role. When the meaning of symbols can exist independently of the goods， “Beaujolais Nouveau” as Claude Levi-Strauss said is “good to think”. This article tries to analysis the consumption phenomenon in contemporary Taiwan through theoretical and in-depth discussions. The result shows， cultural values and symbolic meaning has been firmly established on wine fashion. As long as “Beaujolais Nouveau” is approachable in taste and price， it could be the first experience on wine for many consumers in Taiwan. The consumption symbols on “Beaujolais Nouveau” could help consumers construct taste. It’s not only to satisfy desire for consumption， but also to verify the social position and personal life-style through drinking wine.