顯微分光光譜法應用於織物回收脫色或染色製程色彩管控

Microspectroscopy for Color Control in Textile Recycling, Decolorizing or Dyeing Processes

曾經流行的快時尚所帶來的環境衝擊正朝向織物回收再生產的道路上，因此本研究旨在對回收織物中脫色纖維的色彩量測及管理之技術探討，分別以手持式分光光譜儀量測織布後再以顯微分光光譜儀以獲得紗線中微細纖維的分光反射率數值，再計算出CIELAB色彩度量值以色差公式判斷脫色或染色程度是否可預測至織布色彩。實驗結果為放大100倍可取得紗線中纖維色彩的分光光譜資訊，並經由光源、配色函數可得到色彩三刺激值，並以CIELAB的色差公式比較出不同脫色或染色程度的色差值，再經由不同數學模式可精準的以紗線纖維色彩預測出織布的色彩度量值。

This study aims to measure the color control of decolorized fibers in the recycling process. The fabric is measured with a handheld spectrophotometer and then with a micro-spectrophotometer to obtain the spectral reflectance values of the fibers in the yarn. The CIELAB color measurement value is then calculated to determine whether the degree of decolorizing or dyeing can be predicted to the color of the fabric using the color difference formula. The experimental results show that by magnifying 100 times, the spectral information of the fiber color in the yarn can be obtained, and the color tristimulus values can be obtained through the light source and color matching function. The color difference values of different degrees of decolorizing or dyeing can be compared by the CIELAB color difference formula, and the color measurement value of the fabric can be accurately predicted through different mathematical models.