近現代的北京飲食圖像(1900-1940)

Discussion on the Dietary Imagery of Beijing in Modern Newspapers and Periodicals (1900-1940)

1900到1940年間，中國進入劇變時期，政治及社會層面產生了劇烈變動。首先在政治方面，時局紊亂，人心不安，1900年庚子事變，1901年辛丑條約簽訂，1911年辛亥革命爆發，1912年清朝滅亡，1916年袁世凱稱帝失敗，從此中國陷入北洋軍閥割據，1928年北伐成功，1930年混亂政治才真正結束，而後1937年七七事變，全國抗戰開始。在社會層面，1915年新文化運動，1919年5月4日五四運動，引進了西方思想，帶給中國一個全新的思想，出現了前所未有的思想大解放。
在這段動盪年間，江山易主、首都南遷、北京城經歷時局的劇烈變遷。而在北京這座歷史悠久，城蘊豐厚的城市，報刊中的北京飲食，呈現出何種風貌?鑑照當時居民生活的何種景況?本文以《燕市積弊》、《都市叢談》、《益世餘譚》及《宇宙風．北平特輯》為考察中心，文內敘述擬分二部分，第一部分先論時局紊亂，社會腐敗，民生困難，在這樣的時代烈變下，燕市飲食風氣改易，人心的險惡，也展現在最普通最簡單的日常飲食，食品詐欺時有所見。第二部分則聚焦食物諺語與比喻，以顯、隱二種方式紀錄飲食買賣方的博弈；相關的諺語也是北京城市生活和社會問題的縮影。

China witnessed a time of dramatic changes from 1900 and 1940, with political and social upheavals taking place. First of all, in terms of politics, the chaotic prevailing circumstances of Boxer Rebellion in 1900, the Boxer Protocol of 1901, the outbreak of the 1911 Revolution , the fall of Qing Dynasty in 1912, and Yuan Shih-kai’s claiming defeat as emperor led to restless mindset among people. From then on, China fell into the separatist regime of the Beiyang warlords, followed by the successful Northern Expedition in 1928, and the chaotic politics only really ended in 1930. Then the July 7 Incident in 1937 launched the clarion call for the national war of resistance. At the social level, the New Culture Movement in 1915 and the May 4th Movement in 1919 brought in Western ideas and presented a brand new idea to China, resulting in an unprecedented ideological liberation.
The turbulent years saw the shifts of regime, the southward relocation of the capital, and the drastic changes in the situation in Beijing. What kind of food and beverage did Beijing, a city with a long history and rich urban heritage, present in newspapers and periodicals? What could we refer to from the lives of residents at that time? Focusing on the Long-standing Malpractice of Beijing, Urban Discourse, and Universal Talks: Features of Beijing, this paper was divided into two parts. In the first part, the chaotic prevailing circumstances, corrupt society, and the depressed people’s livelihood were discussed. The dramatic changes at that time resulted in the changes of culinary culture of Beijing and sinister mentality as evident in the most ordinary and simplest daily diet, with fraudulent practices in food occurring from time to time. The second part focused on food proverbs and two-part allegorical sayings, recording the game between food buyers and sellers in both explicit and implicit ways. The related two-part allegorical saying is also a microcosm of urban life and social problems in Beijing.