服裝畫之視覺美感研究

Research on the Visual Aesthetics of Fashion Illustration

服裝畫是學習服裝設計過程中必備的繪畫技能，在繪製上必須注重視覺效果，然而國內目前相關研究領域中，少有人注意到此方面的問題。因此呈現服裝畫的最佳視覺美感，供服裝設計實務及教學上之參考，具有其必要性和價值性。
本研究主要目的在探討服裝畫款式類型與頭身比是否有相關：第一階段以「文獻分析法」歸納服裝畫中的頭身比，模擬出不同腿長的人體比例身形，搭配不同長短款式的服裝。第二階段使用「排序法」，以遞增的方式讓受測者進行比較，並進行肯德爾和諧係數的計算，以瞭解排序的信度和結果；再用單因數變異數分析，探討不同比例的平均值是否達到差異顯著水準。最後，使用Duncan事後多重比較，瞭解各個比例的差異情形及分群。第三階段「語意分析法」主要探討影響服裝畫「意象」的視覺美感的共同因素，藉由因素分析（Factor Analysis）求出各量尺的因素負荷量（factor loadings），並計算各概念的因子得點（factor score）及「語意空間」的座標位置，藉以做更深入的探討。
本研究發現服裝畫款式「最美觀」的結果為內衣8.5頭身、短褲9頭身、連衣裙9.5頭身、超長群10.5頭身、晚禮服10頭身。「最不美觀」的結果除了內衣款式11頭身，其他皆為7.5頭身；人體比例在7.5頭身在視覺效果及意象評價皆欠佳。內衣、短褲款式其意象評價比例與和諧因素欠佳，顯示內衣及短褲不宜比例畫太高。連衣裙、超長裙、晚禮服款式在視覺效果及意象評價皆為較佳，顯示較長版服裝款式適合畫較高的頭身比。

Fashion illustration is an indispensable drawing skill in the process of costume design learning. During the design process, it is necessary to pay attention to its visual effects which currently few people have noticed this problem in the relevant research fields in Taiwan. Therefore, it is necessary and valuable to present the best visual beauty of fashion illustrations for reference in clothing design practice and teaching.
The main purpose of this research is to explore whether there is a correlation between the style of fashion illustration and the head-to-body ratio. The first stage would summarize the head-to-body ratio in the fashion illustration through the document analysis method and simulate the proportions of the human body with different leg lengths to go with different lengths and styles of clothing. By adapting the sorting method at the second stage, subjects would compare each style in an incremental manner. Kendall's concordance coefficient was calculated in order to understand the reliability and results of the ranking. Then, using one-way analysis of variance to explore whether the average value of different proportions reaches the significant level of difference. Finally, using Duncan posteriori comparison to understand the differences and groupings of each proportion. The semantic analysis at the third stage mainly explored the common factors that affect the visual aesthetics of the fashion illustrations images. Analyzed the factor loadings of each scale through factor analysis and calculated each concept’s factor score and the coordinate position of the semantic space for further in-depth discussion.
This study has found that the most beautiful fashion illustration styles resulted in 8.5 heads tall in underwear, 9 heads tall in shorts, 9.5 heads tall in dresses, 10.5 heads tall in maxi dresses, and 10 heads tall in evening gowns. The result of the least beautiful fashion illustration styles was 7.5 heads tall in most styles except for the 11 heads tall in underwear; the visual effect and image evaluation of the body ratio at 7.5 heads tall was mostly poor. The image evaluation ratios of underwear and shorts styles and the concordance factor was not good, indicating that the ratio of underwear and shorts should not be too extreme. Dresses, maxi dresses, and evening gowns styles were better in visual effects and imagery evaluations, showing that longer dress styles are suitable for taller head-to-body ratios.