當新衣變「滯」衣，留或丟？消費者衣著購後棄置行為英文期刊文獻回顧研究

When New Garments Become Unwanted, Kept or Thrown? A Review of Clothing Post-purchase Disposal Behaviors Based on English Journal

本研究目的是探討消費者衣著購後棄置行為及其影響因素，具體的研究問題包含：（1）消費者處理滯衣的方式為何？（2）影響消費者衣著棄置行為的因素有那些？（3）過去衣著棄置行為的研究重點與未來可能之研究方向為何？本研究為回顧性研究，聚焦過去20年國外已經發表的期刊文獻，以disposal（棄置）與clothing（服裝）或apparel（衣服）為關鍵字，搜尋介於2000年1月至2021年10月之間，EBSCO及Scopus資料庫之英文學術期刊文獻，去除重複的部分，共得27篇文獻，藉由質性的內容分析法，歸納整理過去研究的主軸與結果。過去服裝棄置研究之結果大致可歸納出五主題脈絡：（1）產生滯衣的因素，（2）處理滯衣的頻率及影響因素，（3）滯衣處理方式與棄留決策因素，（4）棄置行為的選擇及影響因素，（5）人-衣關係中的情緒、依附及連結，後三者不只是分類的概念還存有脈絡性以及研究入徑的差異。本研究同時依文獻回顧之發現提出衣著購後棄置決策模式與影響因素。簡言之，影響衣著棄置決策的因素多重且作用力不同，本研究爬梳相關文獻後的分析結果可供衣著永續教育的規劃以及衣著棄置議題未來研究之參考。

This study aims to understand consumers’clothing post-purchase disposal behaviors and its causal factors. The research questions are as follows: (1) How do consumers handle their unwanted clothing? (2) What factors affect consumers’clothing disposal behavior? (3) What have previous studies on clothing disposal behavior focused on and what directions exist for future research? This retrospective study focuses on research published outside of Taiwan over the past 20 years. The researcher used the keywords“disposal,”“clothing,”or“apparel”to collect literature from English-language academic journals in the EBSCO and Scopus databases from January 2000 to October 2021. After removing duplicate results, a total of 27 journal articles were obtained. Qualitative content analysis was used to analyze the data, revealed that the results of past studies on clothing disposal behavior can be classified into five themes: (1) factors causing clothing to become unwanted, (2) the frequency and influencing factors of handling unwanted clothing, (3) methods of disposal and the decision-making process in deciding whether to keep or dispose of unwanted clothing, (4) the choices and factors influencing clothing disposal behaviors, and (5) emotions, attachments, and connections between clothing and the wearer and how this affects disposal behaviors. The latter three themes were not only classified as concepts but also as differences in the research approaches and contexts of the studies. Further, this study proposes a model of clothing disposal decision-making and the factors affecting this behavior. To summarize, clothing disposal behaviors are complicated and the decision to keep or dispose of unwanted clothing is influenced by multiple factors and considerations. The findings of this study can be used as a reference for sustainable clothing education and future research on clothing disposal behavior.