馬來西亞當代咖啡消費文化的轉變：時代變遷下的檳城喬治市傳統咖啡店

Koping with Changing Times: The Viability of George Town’s Kopitiams for Modern Consumers

本文以馬來西亞檳城喬治市的傳統咖啡廳——當地所稱的「咖啡店」（kopitiams）及其消費文化作為分析對象。本文探討馬來西亞傳統咖啡廳是否因為其他類型咖啡店的出現，例如更為摩登的咖啡店，透過提供顧客更多外出用餐與咖啡消費選項以及更為舒適的消費體驗，而影響到「咖啡店」的存續性。由於「咖啡店」通常販售非清真認證商品，此一特質某種程度上排除了具有穆斯林信仰的顧客，因此，本文亦關注「咖啡店」是否代表了馬來西亞特定族裔消費者。理論取徑方面，本文主要受到雪倫•朱津（Sharon Zukin）的本真性（authenticity）概念之啟發，藉此探討消費者如何於「咖啡店」體驗馬來西亞咖啡文化。本文發現「咖啡店」本真性之建構與消費者在特定時空下於咖啡店的消費體驗息息相關。最後，本文亦闡述如何透過「本真性」概念開啟咖啡店相關研究的多元視角。

This article is an analysis of the traditional coffeehouses, locally known as kopitiam, of George Town, Penang, Malaysia. I examine various issues which surround the sustainability of kopitiams with respect to the emergence of other types of coffeehouses that have since given customers more options in dining outside of home and of coffee consumption, with arguably more comfortable experiences. I also look at whether these iconic coffee shops are more representative of one ethnic group than others in Malaysia, given that non-halal food is usually sold in kopitiams, a culinary feature that hinders the patronage of Muslim customers. This article is primarily guided by Sharon Zukin’s notion of authenticity in examining how customers construct and experience authenticity in kopitiams. Authenticity in kopitiam is linked to preconceived spatial and temporal images that customers draw. I argue theoretically that seeking ‘authenticity’ leads to their varied coffeehouse experiences.