作家之眼與日常之舌──論張愛玲散文中的飲食書寫

The Writer’s Eyes and the Writer’s Mouth of Everyday Life--A Discussion on Dietary Writing in Eileen Chang’s Prose

本文透過分析張愛玲散文中的飲食書寫，從「作家之眼」與「日常之舌」兩方面，探究張愛玲如何以一雙「作家敏銳的慧眼」，不僅將飲食作為一門生活藝術來觀察，更能從看似細瑣的「審食」過程，提煉出對人性與時代的真知灼見。此外，張愛玲樸素的飲食習慣與家常的敘事口吻，也能讓我們進一步看到她平凡的「日常之舌（飲食味蕾／寫作腔調）」中，所蘊含不平凡的人生與創作品味──張愛玲靈敏的感官與對飲食獨到的鑑賞，往往能以高妙的語言藝術，化為生動的文字，呈現在讀者面前；讀者也能從字裡行間，了解到作家創作的審美取向與真實的人生側影。本文在文本分析之餘，亦結合作家生平經歷，期待能更有系統的深入剖析，張愛玲散文中飲食書寫的特色與成就。

This paper analyzes the dietary writing in Eileen Chang’s prose from two perspectives: ''the writer’s eyes'', through which the paper reveals Chang’s observation of food as an everyday art and the refinement of her insight into humanity and the era she lived in; ''the writer’s mouth of everyday life'', through which the paper reveals the plain diet and homely narrative tone of Chang as well as her exceptional life experiences and writing taste hidden under such a simple life. Chang’s sensitive senses and unique observations of food are often translated vividly into words for readers through her delicate art of language. This paper examines Chang’s life to facilitate a systematic analysis of her reflection and achievements on dietary writing.