以「隨創」觀點解析包浩斯編織工坊傑出女性創意設計者的發展脈絡

Analyzing the Development Context of Talented Female Creative Designers of Bauhaus Weaving Workshop from a “Bricolage” Perspective

適逢紀念德國包浩斯誕生百年，過去研究觀點多聚焦在包浩斯知名的男性藝術設計教師、作品及具有特色且對世界現代設計發展影響極深的課程內容及教學方法，但對於獨具特色的專業分科工作坊卻欠缺深入的解析，特別是包浩斯短短14年中，女學生最多且具備現代化工業生產雛型的編織工坊，包浩斯女性編織創作者的成就與表現幾乎被埋沒在以男性父權觀點主導的包浩斯研究中而鮮為人知，究竟這些傑出的女性編織創作者如何在國家社會困窘動盪的年代中創新？她們在設計表徵、意義與發展上有何內涵？這些議題尚待系統化的探究。緣此，本研究即以包浩斯編織工坊為研究對象，搜羅歷史文獻、耙梳這段模糊未明的發展脈絡，並以「隨創」觀點來詮釋此時期動盪情境下的包浩斯傑出女性創作者及其創作的發展概況，透過質性方法，解析其創作內容、作品內涵，並論述她們對於後輩設計的影響。研究成果如下：（1）包浩斯女性編織創作者具備5種「隨創」的象徵意義；（2）編織工坊的工具、材料、學習和工作方式，都充分利用了「隨創」原則；（3）工坊的發展成果是典型「劣勢創新」的典範──涉及大環境（國家、社會）、中環境（學校管理層）、小環境（師生、同儕）的三方制約。

In commemoration of the centenary of the birth of Bauhaus in Germany, it is found that the past views mostly focused on the works of famous male art and design teachers of Bauhaus, their course contents, teaching methods, and characteristics that had a pro-found impact on the development of modern design in the world, whereas it was in lack of in-depth analysis on these unique professional workshops. In the 14 years of Bauhaus history, the weaving workshop with its largest number of female students, the modern industrial foundation and the achievements of Bauhaus female knitters were almost buried in the male patriarchal perspective of Bauhaus research and little known. How on earth did these brilliant female knitters innovate in a time of national and social distress? What is the meaning and development of their design representation? These issues need to be systematically explored. Hence, this study adopted an analysis framework from a bricolage perspective with the existing literature of weaving workshop from Bauhaus. The findings are as follows: (1) the context of Bauhaus female weaving creators had included the five characteristics of bricolage; (2) the tools, materials, study, and work style of weaving workshop can be seen as examples of making the best use of bricolage principles; (3) the results of the workshop development is a typical example of ’’disadvantageous innovation’’, involving the hindrances from the macro-environment (national, social), medium environment (school management) and micro- environment (teachers and students, peers).