「不男不女」：台灣「長髮」男性的治理及其性別政治，1960s－1970s

'Neither Man nor Woman': The Gender Politics of Long-haired Men in Taiwan, 1960s-1970s

1960－1970年代期間，台灣政府根據《違警罰法》大規模取締「長髮」男性（又稱「不男不女」），社會各界對於長髮與取締也議論紛紛。本文以機關檔案、公文、報章報導、雜誌書籍，及「長髮」男性的口述史訪談為材料，探討這段歷史的身體治理及其性別政治。本文有三個主要發現。其一，《違警罰法》與善良風俗論述（身體儀容的性別規範）的歷史皆可以追溯至20世紀初期的中國，可知「奇裝異服」的儀容治理有其歷史的延續性。但有別於民國初年的治理對象以婦女為主，1960、1970年代台灣則以男性為治理的主要對象，及較少數的女性迷你裙取締。其二，將1960年代台灣的治理與當時全球各地的治理比較，除善良風俗之外，台灣的反共、「西洋歪風」襲擊及復興中華文化的論述顯示出此身體治理的冷戰特色與地理政治。最後，長髮男性並無意圖成為「不男不女」，而是反抗制式化的身體規範，如此的自我表達與身體自主的維護是一種陽剛特質的展現。基於此段歷史的複雜性，本文主張不能僅以戒嚴體制來解釋此段歷史，並說明這類身體治理顯示了性別政治與國家文化政治的互相滲透。

In the period between the late sixties and mid-seventies, the government of Taiwan undertook broad-scale action to police young men who were thought to have grown their hair too long. Situating such regulation of the masculine body in the context of Cold War gender politics, social transformation, and the history of Taiwan's particular hair rules, this paper examines the ways in which long-haired men were understood as a sign of the country's crisis articulated in terms of Western and communist corrupting influences. I argue that this history is gendered at various levels, including the appropriation and reinvention of the term 'bu nan bu nu' (neither man nor woman) to describe such a supposed foreign corruption of 'authentic' Chinese culture, and which implied that men were not supposed to distinguish themselves by adopting an unconventional hair style. Even though 'long-haired' men did not intend to adopt women's hair style, they did resist the rigidly imposed regulations of body appearance. It was through this resistance and the claiming of the freedom to one's own body expression that men worked against the limitations that were imposed upon them. The case of long-haired men was not merely an example of how the martial law system restricted freedom of expression; it was also a case in which the regulations of gendered body appearance intertwined with both the state and cultural politics.