「家」的身體實踐：林海音飲食書寫中的烹與食

The Bodily Practice of “Home＂: Cooking and Dining in Food Writings of Lin Hai-yin

本文回溯臺灣現代飲食文學的源頭至1950年代，聚焦於其中多產作家林海音豐富的雜文與散文作品，分析其飲食書寫特色。林海音的飲食書寫呼應她對婚姻、女性的關懷，以「家」為主軸，包括家庭飲食與家鄉飲食書寫，二大書寫主題為：自家餐桌的家庭烹飪與臺灣、北京雙元纏繞的家鄉味。林海音的家庭飲食書寫題材涵蓋菜場、廚房及餐桌，一方面展現賢妻良母的角色，另一方面卻也透露與職場角色的掙扎與對男性的暗諷。本文申論，日常烹飪是一種「賢妻良母」的社會實踐，「共餐」是重要的家庭儀式，而「賢妻良母」則被認為具有提供「良餐」的職責。林海音對家庭飲食的書寫刻畫了1950年代的女性社會角色及一個離散情境中「家」的構成。此外，林海音的家鄉飲食書寫則來回往復於父母的「臺灣味」與自身的「北京味」之間，突顯出「家」的多元意涵。本文藉由飲食書寫的耙梳顯示出，「家」不僅具有地理上、時間上、空間上的意義，更是柴米油鹽日常烹飪中的身體實踐，這樣的身體實踐在1950年代的時空中對遷臺作家來說，甚且具有「安身立命」的重要意義。

This article traces the modern food literature in Taiwan to the 1950s, focusing on the works of Lin Hai-yin. Two main themes of Lin’s food writings are family dining and her “hometown food,” which refers to both Taiwanese food and Beiping food. With the core concern of “home,” her writings reveal the multi-facets and diverse meanings of “home.” On the one hand, home dining was presented as a key family event and cultural ritual, while the wife/mother played the operator role of this ritual and her main task was to prepare a “proper meal” recognized by the society. On the other hand, Lin’s writings on hometown food suggested that “hometown” could not only be geographically limited but also be bonded on particular persons and ages. Based on the analysis of Lin’s food writings, this article argues that the meaning of “home” are embodied in the bodily practices of daily life, and it is significant in the contexts of immigrants and the diaspora.