《儀禮》裼襲、袒襲考

The State of Dress in Yili

本文擬從行禮場合的角度，探討《儀禮》中裼襲、袒襲的衣著狀態。依據《禮記》的記載，將《儀禮》的相關資料分為兩類：首先，臣在君前或公門，主要以「裼」為敬，表示自我修為的美好。部分禮儀場合則改變衣著狀態，如射禮為便於射箭而袒、喪禮表哀而袒、聘禮之正聘因鄭重昭信而襲。其次，子在父母舅姑之所，主要以「襲」為敬，表示自然質樸的親情。若遭喪表哀則袒、祭祀崇敬亦袒。因此不論在任何場合之下，若欲表達更深厚的情意或講究實用、辨別等效果時，將改變既有的衣著規則作為對應。禮文看似複雜，而仍有其脈絡可尋。上述研究結果對於解讀《儀禮》、條貫古代文獻中裼襲、袒襲的服飾變化與意涵，當具有相當程度的參考性。

From the viewpoint of ritual occasions, this paper discusses the dressing in exposing part of the body (袒tan), orderly (襲xi), or displaying part of the beautiful cloth (裼xi) in Yili. According to Liji, it will classify the information to two types in Yili. First, before the emperor or in official place, xi (裼) is the way to show reverence. Xi (裼) means well educated and practicing moral teaching well. In some kind of ritual occasion, than people can change dressing to tan (袒), such as for the convenience in archery, for the sorrow in the funeral, or for the formal in pinli (聘禮). Second, in parents' house, xi (襲) is the way to express respect. In the clan area, xi (襲) shows natural and unadorned parent-child feelings. It can also change the dressing into tan (袒) to show different motions, when observing mourning, or offering sacrifice to ancestors. Therefore, dressing rules can be changed on the basis of ritual occasion or affection. Complicated rite has the thread of thought. The results of this paper may help adding the interpretive rules in Yili and making the changes of dressing ordered in ancient books.