中國古代的「驢腸」肴饌──兼論「驢腸羹」的變異和傳入日本

“Donkey Rectum＂ Dish in Ancient China - With the Study of the Variation of “Donkey Rectum Thick Soup＂ and Its Introduction to Japan

日本古籍中有一味肴饌，名叫「驢腸羹」，但其原料卻與驢無涉，而是由小麥粉、豆粉、葛粉等混合後加糖的一種蒸食。中國北方古代嗜食驢馬板腸（直腸），使其成為一味知名肴饌。而驢馬板腸因其特殊的組織結構和烹調方式，以新鮮為最美，使許多權貴和肉食店採用慘無人道的虐殺方式。由於南方無驢或因對非人道虐殺方式的抵觸，南宋時出現了驢腸食的仿製品「假驢事件」和「假作驢腸膳」，並出現在寺院，成為禪僧茶飲佐食。大約在南宋末或元代，傳入日本，成為日本知名的佐茶點心。

A dish called “donkey rectum thick soup” was recorded in Japanese ancient books. Interesting is, the materials of this dish have nothing to do with donkey. It is made of the mixture of wheat flour, soy flour, arrow root and sugar by steaming. In ancient China, northern people liked eating horse and donkey rectums which is a very famous dish. The fresh horse and donkey rectum is most delicious for its biological tissue and cooking method. Therefore, the horse and donkey were killed with maltreatment by cooks. Because of the resistance to the maltreatment or lack of donkeys in south, the imitations of donkey rectum, such as “fake donkey event” and “fake donkey rectum dish”, appeared in temples and became as pastry when the monks drinking tea. About by the end of the Southern Song dynasty or Yuan dynasty, it was introduced into Japan and became as a famous pastry.