「清香風味」作為研究主題：李亦園院士致力督促之身體感的研究取徑

The Taste of ＂Fresh and Fragrant＂ as Research Topic: The Shentigan approach encouraged by Academician Li, Yih-Yuan

身體感之研究取徑承襲自李院士主持之氣的研究計畫（中研院主題計畫「文化、氣與傳統醫學科技綜合研究」），本文探討之台茶的「清香風味」亦為一身體感的項目（category），以之為研究主題，追溯其生命史，以呈現相關之文化、社會與歷史過程，乃李院士督促筆者與民族所「身體經驗研究群」戮力發展之身體感的研究取徑。筆者謹以李院士生前最後參與之身體感的整合型計畫的研究成果，感念李老師的鼓勵與支持。台灣戰後茶產業與消費文化出現一項重要的轉變──「清香」口味的出現與風行，與而後造成之台茶部分發酵茶全面之清香化的趨勢。台灣早期茶葉製作基本上承襲福建安溪與武夷的傳統，注重重發酵與烘焙的熟香口味，這個傳統的口味與製作方式在1980年代出現極大的變化，輕發酵、低度（或不）烘焙的清香風味開始流行，台灣各式部分發酵茶都受影響，台灣幾樣名茶，包括文山包種、白毫烏龍、凍頂烏龍、高山烏龍及鐵觀音等都出現清香化的趨勢，並於90年代末期影響中國及香港的消費趨勢與製茶工藝，使得歷史悠久之安溪鐵觀音也出現清香化的現象。本論文探索台灣茶清香風味的社會生命史，追溯台灣茶風味的歷史所展現之豐富的政治、社會與文化的過程，尤其將從此品嚐項目的出現及內涵的轉變入手，一方面討論歷史的行動者（茶農、茶改場專家、茶商、茶人及消費者）與茶這項物之間密切的互動如何導致此項目的成形；另一方面深入瞭解「清香」風味的形成，如何轉而成為影響台灣茶產業之政治經濟及茶葉製作科技發展的動力。 The emergence of qingxiang (fresh and fragrant) high-mountain tea in the early 1980s marked an important transformation in Taiwan's tea industry and consumptive culture, resulting in a ＂qingxiang trend＂ influencing Taiwanese and even Chinese partly-fermented tea manufacturing and consumption. Taiwan's tea manufacturing style was inherited from Anxi and Wuyi, in Fujian. This style stressed heavy fermentation and a refined baking process to produce a special roasted flavor. This tradition, in terms of both tasting and manufacturing, significantly changed in the 1980s as the qingxiang flavor marked by light fermentation and non-roasting became popular. This new trend has since affected various Taiwan teas, including Baozhong, Oriental Beauty, Dongding oolong, and Tieguanyin, and eventually influenced Anxi's time-honored Tieguanyin manufacturing tradition in the late 1990s. By exploring the social life of Taiwan's qingxiang taste, this article aims to reveal the rich political, social and cultural processes involved in the emergence of this newly created taste category to discuss on the one had how interactions between historical actors, including tea farmers, experts, merchants, and consumer, and object (tea in this case) have been brought into its materialization, and on the other hand, how the formation of qingxiang taste has become a driving force affecting the political economy and technological development of Taiwan's tea industry. This ＂social life of taste＂ approach originated from the Thematic Research Project titled ＂Culture, Qi and Traditional Medicine＂ organized by academician Yih-Yuan Li in 1997. This paper is to memorialize his long-time contribution to the Institute of Ethnology and to Taiwanese anthropology as a whole.