從「酵素」到「醬」：當代泰雅族飲食流變的文化地景

From The Natural Fertilizer and Fungicide to “Sauce”: The Changes of Foodways in the Current Cultural Landscape of the Atayal

「酵素」是當代泰雅族人結合原住民族生態知識（indigenous ecological knowledge, IEK）、韓國自然農法發酵技術及基督教義所製作而成的物質，除了是當代泰雅族有機／自然農業生產中的重要資材，亦被泰雅族人視為具有治療疾病功效的藥物及飲品，近年來甚至被研發成為具在地特色的「醬」，並被使用在食物的料理上。本文以新竹縣尖石鄉玉峰村的泰雅族為例，介紹「酵素」的歷史、使用方式及其所體現的當代泰雅族社會文化意涵，尤其是泰雅族人使用「酵素」反轉社會受苦及發展部落觀光的經驗。 “Xiao su (酵素)” is produced as a natural fertilizer and fungicide by the Atayal farmers, and has become an important material for carrying out organic and natural farming in the Atayal tribal area. In addition to being used as a natural fertilizer and fungicide, “Xiao su” is also commonly used as medicine in the treatment of disease and disease management. The Atayal have begun to use “Xiao su” as a sauce in the context of food preparation recently. To ensure the availability of “Xiao su”, Atayal farmers employ indigenous ecological knowledge, the techniques of Korean natural farming, and the ideology of Christianity. The purpose of this paper is to explore the history and utilization of “Xiao su” as well as its cultural meanings in present-day Atayal society. Attention is given to how the utilization of “Xiao su” relive the social sufferings of the Atayal, and contribute to the development of tourism.