市售化粧品防曬成分之高效能液相層析與毛細管電泳分析   全文下載

Simultaneous Identification of Eight Sunscreen Compounds in Cosmetic Products Using High-Performance Liquid Chromatography and Capillary Electrophoresis

本研究建立高效能液相層析及毛細電泳方法，分析市售防曬化妝品中八種p-Aminobenzoate 類（PABA）及 benzophenone 類等防曬指標成分。在高效能液相層析（HPLC）分析部分，搭配 5C18-MS 管柱，使用60%（v/v）的乙?水溶液為沖提液，並用體積比為0.1% 的磷酸酸化，檢測波長為254 nm，流速固定在0.8 mL/min，可於30 分鐘內完成八種化合物的檢測。以毛細管區帶電泳層析（CZE）分析技術，使用20 mM 硼酸鹽緩衝液（pH 10.0）系統，可成功的於10 分鐘內完成八種化合物的檢測。以上兩方法之再現性，以六次實驗的結果為0.31-0.75%（HPLC 系統）和1.65-3.55%（CE系統）。各標示物質的偵測極限範圍為0.08-1.86 μg/mL（HPLC 系統）和0.23-1.86 μg/mL（CE 系統）。雖然高效能液相層析方法在分析結果的確效性與再現性優於毛細電泳方法，但是所需分析時間較長。本研究所得之分析方法並可成功應用於市售品分析。

p-Aminobenzoates (PABA) and benzophenones in cosmetic products absorb UV radiation. We have developed two simple methods to simultaneously determine whether cosmetic products contain any of eight sunscreen compounds. The first method used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and a Cosmosil 5C18-MS column with an isocratic system consisting of acetonitrile- H2O solution (60/40, v/v) acidified by 0.1% phosphoric acid (v/v); the analysis was monitored by absorbance at 254 nm with a constant flow-rate 0.8 mL/min. This method could easily determine the presence of these compounds in non-pretreated sunscreen products in 30 min. The second method employed capillary electrophoresis (CE) in buffer solution (pH 10.0) containing 20 mM borate; the same analysis was made within 10 min. Reproducibility (relative standard deviation) of the proposed methods, on the basis of the peak-area ratios in six replicate injections, was good with only a slight deviation of 0.31 - 0.75% (for HPLC system) and 1.65 - 3.55% (for CE system). The detection limit (S/N = 3) of the individual marker substances varied from 0.08 to 0.87 μg/mL (for HPLC system) and 0.23 to 1.86 μg/mL (for CE system). Although the HPLC method was superior to the CE method in both reproducibility and resolution, it required longer retention time. The HPLC and CE methods developed were both successfully applied to the assay of 8 UV-absorbing agents in 11 commercial sun protection products.