台灣方志所載禮儀與飲食文化的詮釋

Interpretation of Ritural and the Dietary Culture in the Taiwanese Local History

早期的台灣方志不僅保存歷史脈絡下的情境，也蘊含十七到十九世紀台灣文化的研究素材。從爬梳府志、廳志、縣志、采訪冊等方志的文字記錄中，將可發掘台灣早期飲食文化與禮儀的意涵。為詮釋台灣方志中信仰、禮儀與飲食文化的關聯，本文從兩層面加以論述，(1)宗教儀式與飲食文化方面：先就平埔族巫俗儀式與祭品，以及耕作儀式與飲食文化的關係；再論漢族民間信仰除疫巫俗與媒介食物，以及媽祖信仰與飲食文化的象徵意涵。(2)探討台灣方志中的生命禮儀與飲食文化：詮釋生產階段、滿月到度晬，以及成年禮俗與飲食文化的關聯；再從食物與婚前禮、親迎禮、婚後禮等婚姻禮俗儀式中的作用；最後論析飲食文化於治喪、出殯及出殯後科儀在喪葬禮俗中的意涵。本文應用弗雷澤(James Frazer)《金枝》的「交感巫術」，以及范瑾尼(A. VanGennep)「生命禮儀」的概念，探討飲食文化在這些宗教儀式與生命禮儀中所具有的意義。分析台灣方志記載平埔族「尫姨」（女巫）的「作向」，以及「王爺」信仰結合「逐疫」儀式等，以探討飲食於民間祛病、婚喪禮儀、或王醮等宗教儀式中的作用，期能進一步詮釋早期台灣各族群飲食文化與禮儀的意涵。

In the early official documents of Taiwanese history during the Ching Dynasty, the historians not only recorded the events and people from the past, but they preserved many important materials for the research on Taiwanese culture. Through different level of governmental documents on the daily life of the people, We were able to acquire a deeper insight into early Taiwanese culture on diet and religious rituals. In order to elaborate on the relation of religion, rituals, and the culture of diet in Taiwanese official documents, we began our analysis from two aspects: (1) Religious ceremony and the culture of diet. First we discussed the witchcrafts and immolation of Taiwanese aborigine of Pingpu, and we also worked on the relation between farming rituals and the culture of diet. Second, we discussed the medicinal witchcraft and the ”Intermediary Food”, and also the cultural significance of Ma-Zhu worshiping and the culture of diet (2) In Taiwanese official documents, We discussed the idea of ”the Rite of Passage” which was brought up by Arnold Van Gennep and the culture of diet. We tried to interpret the relation between the culture of diet and the important stage of a new-born baby, such as pre-labor stage, when a baby become one month old, and his first birthday, and we also discussed the relation between adult customs and the culture of diet. Then we proceeded to the discussion of the symbolic meanings of food in the traditional Chinese wedding ceremony, including the other traditions before and after the wedding. The last thing we discuss is the funeral and its relation with diet, and this also included some traditions before and after the funeral.We applied the concepts of sympathetic magic in the Golden Bough by Sir James George Frazer and the idea of ”Rites of Passages” by Arnold Van Gennep to discuss the importance of different regional activities from Taiwanese aborigine of Pingpu and the traditional Chinese society. Through the analysis of ”Tsuo-Shang” of Inibs who are the witches of Pingpu, and the combination of the belief of ”Wangye” and the rituals of the illness banishments, we discussed significance of diet in the banishment of illness, wedding, funeral, and religious rituals. We interpreted the meaning of diet in these regional activities, and it may account for the difference of the culture phenomena in diet and rituals.