屏東地方特色飲食文化探究

The Study of Regional Cuisines Culture in Pintong

對地方特色飲食的了解需回到自然地理與歷史脈絡中理解。對於特色美食的期待不僅是美味，還包括人文與歷史的吸引力，藉此做為區域的認同標識。地方特色飲食最常用的概念包括「地方產物、人文賦予、市場生產」作為闡述屏東飲食文化的形成。在屏東，因在政治經濟性的發展社會下，許多美食認同來自於多樣的特殊場合如節日、慶典、宗教儀式等等，背後則是政府與中介機構的一項複雜糸統，以行銷地方品牌意識，包括東港黑鮪魚、萬巒豬腳、屏東夜市等。在地理與人文歷史的基礎下，因此有兩種文化族群：一個是客家，一個是原住民，其飲食展現出其在節慶儀式中人與人及人與神間的關係。屏東飲食文化特徵反映出其環繞文化，由自然環境、歷史文化形塑的生活風格、認同。本文認為人文理念可幫助區域飲食文化研究的未來發展，文化導向的研究則能提供地方特色飲食意義與價值的批判與討論。

To understand regional cuisines, it is necessary to have geographical and historical context. A regional cuisines expects the food not only to taste good, but also to be humanities and history appealing for regional identities. The three most commonly available concepts in regional cuisines are “product, humanities, and market” to form Pintong food culture. In Pintong, as in all other politically and economically developed societies, most cuisines identities from a variety of special occasions: holidays, celebrations, and religious rituals. Behind those festivities lies a complicated system of government and intermediaries for brand-conscious, like Dong gang bluefin tuna, Wanluan pig knuckles, Pintong night market etc. At the basis of geography and history in Pington, therefore, there are two cultures: one is Hakka culture, the other is aboriginal culture. Their food culture presents celebrations and religious rituals of the relationship between people, and between people and their deities.The Pintong food culture has drawn heavily on its dominant cultural surrounding that the historical and geographical factors have shaped the lifestyle and identities. This paper was motivated by a belief that humanities concept could help deliberate on the future development of regional food culture research. Culture-oriented research offered critique and discussion about its meaning and value on the regional cuisines.