解析女性服裝意象語彙之變遷——以1996-2004年Vogue Taiwan雜誌為例

The Aesthetic Image Transition of Female Dress-Vogue Taiwan from 1996 to 2004

時尚雜誌可說是本世紀中最關心女性形象的文化類型，對服裝意象的訊息傳播，更擔任著把關者的重要角色。時尚雜誌中所登載的女性服裝意象為何，在情境化歷程中，服裝意象語彙的變遷具何時代意義，是本研究關心的議題。本研究樣本取材自1996-2004 年Vogue Taiwan（時尚雜誌國際中文版）中的服裝單元，並蒐集女性時尚雜誌發展定位及服裝意象語彙等相關文獻，結合內容分析法進行研究，歸納出時尚雜誌建構的女性服裝意象語彙類型，包含民俗、華麗、中性、野性、浪漫、運動、率性、優雅、甜美、動感、性感、純真、復古、極簡共14 種意象語彙，並進一步以情境觀點解析整體趨勢與變遷意義。希望藉此協助服裝設計者運用並再思考女性服裝意象特質的定位。

Fashion magazines can be considered as a cultural figure in this century which emphasizes female image the most and play an important role as a gatekeeper for broadcasting the aesthetic image of clothing. The objectives of the current study are to explore the aesthetic images transition of female dress appeared in fashion magazines and to understand the cultural sense of vocabulary the magazines used behind the changes of the image by adopting the contextual perspective. The literatures related to the development of female fashion magazines and semiotics of clothing were collected and reviewed. Content analyses were applied to investigate the selected texts of apparel units in Vogue Taiwan from 1996 to 2004. This study assesses 14 adjective words regarding aesthetic image, including ethnic, gorgeous, neutral, wild, romantic, sporty, casual, elegant, sweet, sexy, pure, retro, and simple. Interpretations of the overall trends and the meanings behind these adjective words regarding the changes of the image of female dress were also included. Implications for fashion designers to reconsider the identity of aesthetics of female dress were discussed. The results may be helpful for fashion designers' practices and for reconsidering the orientation of the aesthetic images of female dress.