從《俗務要名林》看唐代民間的服飾文化

A Rearch on Folk Costume Culture of the Tang Dynasty through“Su Wu Yao Ming Lin”

關於唐代的服飾，傳世典籍的記載頗多，但是所顯現的多係上層社會的服飾，對於平民百姓服飾的記載卻是相當匱乏。而敦煌寫本字書《俗務要名林》，除了在教育和語言方面具有一定的價值之外，也為研究唐代民間，尤其是敦煌地區民間的服飾文化，提供了相當珍貴的第一手資料。 本文以《俗務要名林》中所保存的男服部、女服部、綵帛絹布部等有關服飾的詞彙為研究對象，說明《俗務要名林》的時代與性質，並將服飾的詞彙一一加以校錄。進一步針對其所反映的胡漢文化融合、婦女風氣開放、審美觀念進步、衣料品種多樣等服飾文化進行探討。同時，論述唐代敦煌地區民間服飾文化形成的時空背景。期能藉此重現唐代民間服飾文化的真實面貌，並且彌補傳世典籍對於民間服飾記載的不足，突顯其於中國服飾文化史上具有補白的重要作用與價值。

There have been a great number of literary classics and documents remarking on the costumes of the Tang Dynasty for centuries. However, most of them put their emphases on the costumes of the upper class while few talked about folk costumes. Among them, the dictionary of Dun-Huang manuscript“Su Wu Yao Ming Lin”can not only be served as a valuable material in education and language, but also an extremely good material that could actually reflect the folk costume culture of the Tang Dynasty. The subjects of this study are vocabularies of costumes, including men's wear, women's wear, colored silks and silk clothing preserved in“Su Wu Yao Ming Lin”. This study firstly explains time and nature of“Su Wu Yao Ming Lin”, then collates and records the vocabularies of costumes. Further, this study aims at the following costume cultures and discusses them, which are the cultural blending of Hu and Han, the open ethos of women, the progress of aesthetic and the various dress materials. At the same time, this study would like to discuss the background formed by folk costume cultures in Dun-Huang area of the Tang Dynasty. This study expects to reappear the real appearance of the Tang Dynasty's folk costume cultures by this way, making up for the shortage of the folk costumes recorded in descendant literatures to highlight its important role and value of filling the gaps in the history of Chinese costume cultures.