農業遊憩品牌的象徵鬥爭場域初探：以坪林茶產業為例

A Preliminary Study on the Symbolic Struggle for Tourism and Recreation Brands: The Pinglin Tea as an Example

為了瞭解近年各地興起之農業遊憩品牌的社會脈絡，本文以批判角度切入坪林的茶葉品牌，探討農業遊憩運作的邏輯。文中採用文本分析與深度訪談法，除了歷史的爬梳之外，亦針對現場訪談進行 Bourdieu 文化生產場域觀點的切入，對農業遊憩品牌做場域認知的發問。研究結果發現，大家所孰悉的包種茶，因著象徵鬥爭的歷史脈絡，而成為地域性的農業品牌；為了讓茶葉的銷售提升，農家透過鬥茶、採茶與古法炒茶體驗等相關活動的舉辦，以獲取象徵資本的正當性，更凸顯遊憩活動在文化生產的實質意義。本文更進一步的分析，坪林如何以包種茶作為遊憩的載體，透過一系列的象徵鬥爭而成為各個農家、茶行掌握在手的品牌，包括具有觀賞性的村里之間非正式鬥茶、文創茶行與老舊茶行的競爭，乃至於各環境友善/有機茶葉品牌彼此的競合。本文初探農業遊憩品牌的社會脈絡，提出的結論為：「象徵資本」的爭奪為品牌獲取正當性的手段之一，更是坪林各個茶葉品牌建立消費忠誠度的契機。於是，茶鄉「遊憩品牌」的發言權，因著一連串的象徵鬥爭，正在坪林展開。

In order to understand the social context of the agricultural recreation brands that have emerged in recent years, this article critically cuts into Pinglin’s recreational activities and explores the logic of agricultural recreation brand operations. The article adopts text analysis and in-depth interview methods, and from the viewpoint of Bourdieu's The Field of Cultural Production, I asked the questions about the perception of agricultural and recreational brands in the field. The results of the study found that the Baozhong tea that everyone knows about has become a regional agricultural brand because of the historical context that symbolizes struggle. To increase the sales of tea, the farmers organize tea trips to obtain the legitimacy of symbolic capital, which highlights the significance of recreational activities in cultural production. Furthermore, Pinglin takes Baozhong tea as a carrier of recreation, and through a series of symbolic struggles, it has become a brand in the hands of various farmers, including the tea fighting culture, competition between new tea and old tea shops, and the various tea brands and so on. This article initially explores the social context of agricultural recreational brands and concludes that: agricultural recreation is one of the means for the brand to obtain 'symbolic capital', and it is also an opportunity for Pinglin's various tea brands to increase consumption. As a result, a series of symbolic struggles took place in Pinglin to fight for the right to speak of the 'recreational brand' in this tea town.