漢餅、臺灣菓子、麵包：日治時期臺灣烘焙產業之形成與消費變遷

Han Pastry, Taiwanese Snacks, and Bread:Formation of Bakery Industry and Transformation of Consumption Culture in Japanese Colonial Taiwan

臺灣的主要烘焙產品從清代的糕仔、漢餅逐漸轉向近代的麵包、西點，產品的變化不僅代表消費文化的轉變，更標示了烘焙工業的發展，以及烘焙產品在社會生活中的意義轉化，可說是從產業鏈到商品符號的全面變革。本文考察臺灣烘焙業在日治時期的發展，包括小麥的推廣種植、製粉工業的建立、漢餅在日治時期作為「臺灣菓子」、「臺灣餅」與麵包及其他和洋菓子的不同社會意義。對臺灣漢人而言，以麵粉、大量糖與油脂製作的漢餅，原本是中秋、喜慶、年節與祭祀才有機會品嚐的節慶食物。日治時期工業化與殖民下的大量砂糖，促使日本和菓子、西式餅乾、麵包開始進入臺灣，為都市居民或上層階級所享用。相較於製作繁瑣且具高度儀式性的「臺灣餅」，口味新奇、非節慶也可食用的新式點心被賦予食用的日常性，逐漸透過原本僅販售漢餅的「臺灣菓子店」進入臺人生活中，如清末開業的臺北大稻埕「寶香齋」，即為經歷此轉型的代表性餅舖。本文檢視日治時期烘焙業的發展與變遷，說明在二次戰後美援小麥盛行之前，臺灣的烘焙業即已有相當發展。在日治時期，一方面臺人開始接觸到新式麵包餅乾、日本菓子、蛋捲等較多元的烘焙產品；另一方面，更是烘焙產業鏈建立的重要時期。烘焙科技如電爐的引進、烘焙產品「儀式性」的去除，以及不同烘焙產品與文化價值的連結，均是影響此時期烘焙消費文化變遷的重要原因。

From rice cakes and Han pastry to modern bread and Western snacks, the shift of baked goods consumed not only reveals the transformation of consumption culture, but also shows the development of bakery industry and the evolution of what bakery products mean in social life. All these changes signify an overwhelming revolution from the industry chain to the symbolic meaning of consumer goods. This article traces the emergence of bakery industry in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial era, including the promotion of wheat planting, establishment of milling industry, and social significance of Han pastry as “Taiwanese snacks/Taiwanese cakes” distinctive from that of bread and other Japanese/Western snacks. To the Hans in Taiwan, Han pastry comprises mainly festival foods enjoyed at Mid-Autumn and New Year, weddings and religious occasions. Made possible by industrialization under colonial rule, enhanced production of sugar spurred the making and eating of Japanese snacks, Western cookies and bread among urban population and the upper classes. Unlike “Taiwanese pastry,” which was complicated to make and bore ritual significance, these new snacks were non-ritualistic and endowed with symbolic meanings of modernity. By examining the emergence and transformation of the bakery industry during the Japanese colonial era, this article argues that the bakery industry had burgeoned even before wheat was brought into post-war Taiwan under American aid. In the first half of the 20th century, Taiwanese had started to consume bread and Japanese snacks, and the bakery industry chain was formed at the same time. New baking technology and changes in social significance of bakery products are all important factors influencing the transformation of bakery consumption culture.