服飾之「氣」：白褲瑤服飾製作中的感官體驗研究

“Shouqi”: Making Clothing and Emic Perception of Baiku Yao People

白褲瑤是聚居在桂西北與黔南交界石山區的一個族群，自稱「朵努」，因男子著及膝白褲而得名「白褲瑤」，至今仍傳續著就地取材的家庭手工服飾製作模式。服飾製作過程十分講究，白褲瑤婦女常有「好」與「不好」等說法，「好」與「不好」的解釋是「合手」與「不合手」，要看自己的手與每道工序是否有緣，是否相合，白褲瑤婦女用漢話「手氣」一詞來意譯那些包含了運氣與靈氣的諸種「活的」東西。「手氣」並非玄乎不解，它是在服飾製作工序的時令季節大背景下，對於更多微觀環境氣候因素的調適，與諸多感官體驗相關，體現了服飾製作中更加「主位」的經驗知識的積累。本文試圖通過考察白褲瑤服飾製作中關於「手氣」的複雜感官體驗，以理解白褲瑤服飾手工藝傳承背後的意義體系。 Baiku means “trousers with white color” in Chinese. And Baiku Yao, an offshoot of the Yao minority group in China, is so named because the male members always wear white trousers. To date, Baiki Yao still maintains a good indigenous knowledge on making folk clothing, from dyeing to weaving, this clothing-making system has been deeply woven into Baiki Yao people's perception on themselves and their natural surroundings. Correspondingly, there is a system of “clothing-making language”. “Shouqi” is one of the most important words, which means the “luck of hands” literally in Chinese, acturally it is people's perception on the clothing-making process, including luck, expection on nature and all kinds of sensation. Compared with so called experts, Baiki Yao women tend to make clothes according to their subjective experience. Because the making process not only represents an accumulation of indigenous knowledge, but also shapes people's perception and identity. What we wear is not just what we wear.