在化妝品乳化系統中提升Vit C 氧化安定性之研究

Studies on Enhancing Vit C Oxidative Stability in a Cosmetic Emulsion System

Vit C在化妝品的應用上對皮膚有抗氧化、美白及健全膠原蛋白結構之多重效益，然而原態的Vit C不佳的氧化安定性卻造成化妝品配方設計上的困難，因容易氧化而變色的特性直接影響配方的穩定性及有效性。雖然Vit C的衍生物陸續被發展出來，但從使用的觀點上，在化妝品中原態的Vit C還是最具安全性及有效性的使用種類。在本研究中，三種具潛力的抗氧化物質（維生素E（0.5%），阿魏酸（0.5%）和亞硫酸鈉（03））加入到含有1% Vit C的乳液配方並形成不同的配方組合，結果發現同時含有Vit C、Vit E、阿魏酸及亞硫酸鈉的組合配方最具有氧化安定性的效果，該配方的DPPH清除能力的捐失程度也是最低，比起其他的組合有最佳的穩定效果，我們認為在這個乳化系統中亞硫酸鈉對於穩定Vit C扮演最關鍵的角色。

In dermocosmetic filed, Vit C has multiple benefits to the skin antioxidant, whitening and improve the structure formation of collagen. However, the native Vit C form has poor oxidative stability, thus causing some trouble in the cosmetic formulation design. Because it is susceptible to oxidation and discoloration, it further affects the stability and effectiveness of the cosmetic formulation. Although Vit C derivatives have been developed, the native Vit C form is still the most safe and effective species in cosmetic products. In this study, three potential antioxidants (Vit E (0.5%), ferulic acid (0.5%) and sodium sulfite (0.3%)) were added to an emulsion formula containing 1% Vit C to form different combination formulas. We found that the combination formula containing Vit C, Vit E, ferulic acid and sodium sulfite has the most oxidative stability effect, and the loss of DPPH scavenging capability is the lowest compared to other combinations. We believe that sodium sulfite plays the most crucial role for stabilizing Vit C in the emulsion system.