日式料理在臺灣：鋤燒（スキヤキ）與臺灣智識階層的社群生活（1895-1960 年代）

Japanese Cuisine in Taiwan: Sukiyaki and Community Life of Intellectual Class in Taiwan (1895-1960s)

鋤燒（スキヤキ）是日本明治年間發展而成、富有「文明開化」意味的一種新料理，頗受市民階層、知識青年的青睞。日本統治臺灣時期，此款料理方式流傳到臺灣，不僅受到許多本地智識階層歡迎，且形成若干特有的消費意識。本文主旨以臺灣人的鋤燒經驗為對象，分析日本飲食文化嵌入臺灣人日常生活脈絡的過程，也試圖透過鋤燒消費所傳達的象徵意義，來呈現日治時代臺灣人社群意識的發展。對臺灣人來說，使用包含鋤燒在內的日式料理，與其學習「日本化生活」的動機有關，但鋤燒的口味與烹調方式與臺灣人既有食物具有相似性，也是鋤燒容易被接受的重要原因。此外，使用簡便、價格低廉等現實因素也有助於鋤燒的普及。但更重要的是，鋤燒具有文明開化的意義，且其食用方式，適合同儕團體激發認同情感，實踐自由、平等之現代社群意識，因而受到熱中現代社群生活的智識分子歡迎。甚至轉介到家庭領域，成為該階層營造家庭生活樂趣的重要料理。由此顯示，在殖民統治時代，智識份子所接受的現代思潮（包括營養學與保健知識）或社群生活經驗，也是觸發家庭飲食內容發生變遷的重要因素。也因為具有特殊消費意識與特定的消費群體，即使到了戰後時期，對許多經歷日治時代的臺灣智識分子來說，鋤燒仍具有重要消費意義，成為彼此互相慰藉，溫存往日情誼的媒介，甚至成為他們尋求認同的工具。

Sukiyaki (スキヤキ) is a type of Nabe Ryori (hotpot cuisine) developing during the Meiji Era. Served with beef as its major ingredient, which was viewed as a symbol of western civilization, it was a revolutionary nouvelle cuisine endowed with a sense of ＂civilization＂ to the Japanese of that period. This style of cooking was welcomed by the local intellectuals and spread quickly, it also developed into a particular consumer awareness, and even formed a specific consumer group. Focusing on the sukiyaki experiences of Taiwanese during the Japanese colonial era and the post-war years, this paper analyzes how Japanese culinary culture became embedded in the daily life of Taiwanese. The consumption of Japanese cuisine, including sukiyaki, was motivated by the desire to learn the ＂Japanese way of life＂. As sukiyaki tasted and was cooked like Taiwanese dishes, it was easily integrated with local foodways. In addition, sukiyaki was a cuisine well-liked by the intellectual class in Taiwan not only because of its own significance in cultural advancement, but also due to the affective sentiments aroused among peers sharing the food from the same hotpot, a realization of the attributes of freedom and equality in modern communities. It was even introduced to the household domain that it became an important cuisine for the intellectual class to foster happy family life. This situation indicates that the acceptance of Taiwanese intellectuals with modern ideological trend, including nutritional and health care knowledge, or community-life experiences was also important factors to guide changes in the household diet. Along with the regime changed to the post-war period, the social meaning of sukiyaki also evolved. It became a medium for mutual comfort and the preservation of previous warm friendships for those who experienced the time of Japanese rule. Sukiyaki on that meaning acted as a tool for seeking mutual understanding in the Japanese-style gatherings.