泰雅族織品紋樣的造形與色彩之研究以北勢群傳統服飾為例

Shapes and Colors of the Atayal Tribe's Textiles: The Case of Beishi Group's Traditional Costumes

本研究以泰雅族北勢群織品為研究樣本，透過比對、分析解讀織品的紋樣造形與色彩表現，嘗試以設計的角度，經由統計和分析，從中獲得編織結構與造形、色彩之關係和其特色。北勢群織品的複合條紋，其裝飾題材有菱形紋、臼形紋、山形紋、圓形紋、方形紋、變化紋等，這些紋樣依造形結構分類，橫反覆結構是為數最多的造形。分析紋樣細部的基本形，仍以菱形紋為基本形較多，除此也發現基本形之間有相似性的關係，在形式上已具有基礎的系統化概念。北勢群織品的色彩表現，以黑、灰、白、紅、桃紅、粉紅、橙、黃、綠、藍、紫、咖啡、褐等色系為主。紋樣結構的色彩以白（或苧麻原色）為造形分界，特別是服飾上衣的紋樣用色。服飾下半身，如披肩、護腳布，白色卻是紋樣造形的一部分。構成紋樣的基本形色彩，主要為黑、白、紅，大多是由單一色彩構成單一基本形，藉由單一基本形的用色再搭配其他色彩，採取重複配色的手法，營造出豐富的紋樣效果。不同類型織品的紋樣，確實有不同的色彩搭配方式，但用色組合方面卻無固定的模式。

This research samples the textiles of the Atayal Tribe's Beishi Group and, through comparison and analysis, explains the expression of textile patterns and colors. These attempts are made to understand the unique characteristics of the relationships between forms and colors through statistics and analysis from a design perspective. The decorative motifs on the composite stripes of Beishi Group's textiles concern rhombus-shaped patterns, mortar-shaped patterns, zigzag patterns, circular patterns, square patterns, alternating patterns, and others. These patterns will be classified in accordance with the shape structure; the horizontally separated pattern is the most common one. If we attempt to analyze the detailed shape of the textiles, the rhombus-shaped patterns are the predominant. Also, we discover that there are similarities among the basic patterns and that the Group has already had their basic systematic concept of the form patterns. The colors constantly used in Beishi Group are black, gray, white, red, peach, pink, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, coffee, brown, and other colors. The color in the patterning structure is white （or the ramie color）, which is used to demarcate the line of the shape, particularly the stripe colors on the clothes. White is a color used as the shape of the pattern on the lower part of the costume, such as the wraps and foot protection cloth. The basic colors （mainly the black, white, or red） are composed as a unitary shape with single color. The single color on the unitary shape and other colors are composed and repeated to highlight the rich patterning effects. The patterns on the different textiles indeed have a variety of combinations of colors, but the combination of colors does not have a specific fixed mode.