西洋服裝形態分析應用——以文藝復興時期服裝為例

Morphological Analysis Applied to Western Costume-A Case Study Based on the Costume of Renaissance Era

本論文探討西洋服裝的形態分析，並且以文藝復興時期做為案例說明如何將文本分析法、圖文分析法與形態學分析法應用於西洋服裝的形態分析。採用形態學分析法，本論文依據西洋服飾形態的多變化性，發展出六個步驟程序。其中前五個步驟建立五個形態學矩陣圖，最後步驟說明如何將形態學矩陣圖輔助應用於西洋服飾設計與搜尋合乎欲求條件的西洋服飾解答。在文藝復興時期的案例驗證中，本論文將男性上衣、男性下裝、女性上衣與女性下裝分成四個類別，依據以上六個步驟程序，分別建立其相關的形態學矩陣圖。本論文建議未來設計師可參考研究成果，有效使用文藝復興時期的服裝形態特徵，特別是適用於晚禮服或婚紗的設計靈感造形設計使用上，以及復古美學的服飾設計創新應用。另外也可提供西洋服裝史系統化教學之應用。

This paper aims to investigate the morphological analysis of western costume. A case of western costume in Renaissance era has been verified how to utilize methods of text analysis, picture analysis and morphological analysis to apply to western costume design. According to morphological varieties of western costume, this research adopts morphological analysis and proposes a six-step procedure. The previous five steps are tried to establish five morphological matrix charts. The last step illustrates how to use morphological matrix charts to aid costume design as well as to search for western costume solution, which meets desired costume conditions. In the case study of western costume in Renaissance era, this research separates western costume into four classes: upper clothing of male, lower clothing of male, upper clothing of female and lower clothing of female. Based on the above six-step procedure, the related morphological matrix charts can be built up respectively. This paper suggests that future designers can refer to the research results to efficiently adopt the morphological characteristics of costume in Renaissance era to design their new costumes, particularly, suitable for designing new ceremony dresses and wedding dresses. Additionally, the research results can also be applied to help systemically teaching history of western costume.