日本化的西洋味：日治時期臺灣的西洋料理及臺人的消費實踐

Adaptation and Consumption of Western Cuisine in Taiwan under Japanese Colonization

西餐館及西洋料理的興起與發展，是在外來勢力影響下，一種嶄新的消費與文化實踐。本文從「供應西洋料理的消費場所」出發，探究臺灣在日治時期西洋料理業的發展及臺灣人的西洋料理消費實踐，分析其在物質面、認知面及相關文化論述與意義系統上的變化及西洋料理進入臺灣社會的脈絡。日治初期西洋料理在日人引介下進入臺灣，中、低價位的西洋料理屋尚未形成重要的消費空間，但官方建造、價格昂貴的鐵道旅館則是上層階級的重要社交場所。至日治中期，西洋料理營業場所逐漸轉移至珈琲館、喫茶店，以較低價格與輕鬆氣氛，提供洋酒、咖啡、日本化的麵包及咖哩飯等簡易西式餐點，構成與本地酒樓不同氛圍的休閒或聚會空間，並有西洋料理從業者成立以珈琲館業者為主體的「臺灣司廚士協會」，但從協會刊物亦可看出西洋料理業的經營困難。整體而言，日治時期西洋料理的輸入多停留在簡單餐點、飲料，而非整套用餐禮儀或飲食文化的學習，外送及與和、漢料理混食的情形亦經常可見，在臺灣人眼中，西洋料理與現代化、文明等概念並沒有緊密的連結。參加日人宴席、聚會或偶然休閒與便餐，是臺灣人享用西洋料理的主要時機。本文申論，不同社會中「西方文明」與「現代化」的連結與獲得接受，因其社會結構、權力關係，而有不同發展。臺灣社會在殖民結構的限制下，消費與文化實踐的學習，不僅來自日本對西方認知的折射，亦帶有顯著的階層性。

Focusing on the emergence and development of venues serving western cuisine in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945), this article explores the conditions under which the western cuisine business developed, and how the Taiwanese perceived western cuisine in their dining consumption practices. Western cuisine was introduced by the Japanese in the early colonial period, but the number of western restaurants grew slowly, far from serving as important public venues, with the exception of 'Railway Hotel,' which was a representative site where formal western cuisine was served. Until the 1930s, café and tea house offering western snacks, drinks and light meals burgeoned and became popular settings where western and Japanese ambience were blended. With the proliferation of café, the association of western chefs was also established in 1932. However, western restaurants in Taiwan were less viewed as formal dining venues and had weak connection with the idea of modernization and civilization. Instead, they were regarded as casual eating places where consumers could have food and fun at a lower price compared with local traditional dining establishments. Western restaurants and 'western cuisine' in colonial Taiwan was largely a Japanese adaptation under the social conditions of a colony. This article suggests that the linkage between western civilization and modernization is not self-evident but influenced by the structure and power relations in a society.