喜新戀舊：從日記材料看日治前期臺灣仕紳之服裝文化

Clothing Culture of Gentry in Early Colonial Taiwan

本文以日記性質的史料為中心，觀察日治前期臺灣仕紳階層的服裝文化。許多關於日治時期臺灣社會文化現象的研究，運用的材料主要是報紙報導或調查報告。這些材料對當時社會現象的敘述層面雖然廣，但是卻無法貼近人們實際的日常生活樣態。日記材料正可以補充這方面的不足。透過日記主人翁對每日生活的記述，我們可以更貼近當時人們的生活景觀，具體瞭解他們接觸的人物、觀看的世界，及投入在其中的情感與價值觀。在日記的選擇上，本文以《灌園先生日記》、《水竹居主人日記》及《黃旺成先生日記》等三部為主。透過日記的記述，可以發現1910年代的剪辮改裝風潮之後，男性洋服開始日益流行。西裝、襯衫、詰襟等洋服開始頻繁地出現在各種社交場合，成為社會人士交往迎來的主要服裝之一。至於日式和服在日治前期逐漸進入臺灣仕紳的生活，符合其日常生活上的需要應是重要因素之一。臺灣服原本是臺人的常服、禮服與社交服，用途廣泛。但是1910年代開始面臨洋服的競爭後，在許多場合中逐漸被取代，但是並未被淘汰。在黃旺成與張麗俊的生活中，可以見到自1910年後半期，臺灣服再度興起，出現在拜壽、祭孔及喪禮等場合。顯然此時臺灣服大多是出現於具有傳統、文化性質的特定場合。又，在林獻堂與黃旺成對於臺灣服的穿用中，可以見到長袍成為臺灣立場與文化傾向的代表，具有象徵在地的、傳統的、文化的意涵。此外，臺灣服也與洋服、和服糅合而呈現出多元的現象。由此觀之，臺人對於服裝，雖然非常「喜新」，但卻也相當「戀舊」。

Contrary to most previous research which used newspaper or investigation reports to examine social and cultural phenomena, this study analyzed the clothing culture of Taiwanese gentry during the early Japanese colonial era using their diaries as the research materials. While newspaper or investigation reports indeed contained descriptions on a wide spectrum of phenomena, diaries allowed a closer look at the daily life of people with more realistic portrayal. From their day-to-day depictions, one can know better their life, the people surrounding them, their world views, emotions and values. The dairies included in this study are Diary of Lin Hsien-t'ang , Diary of Chang Li-jun, and Diary of Ng Ong-seng. As mentioned in these diaries, western men's wear had been gaining popularity after the cut braided wave of the 1910s. Since then, suits and shirts were more frequently worn at many social occasions, and became the mainstream attire for social functions. On the other hand, Japanese kimono also got gradually into the lives of the Taiwanese gentry in the early Japanese colonial period, because it conformed to the needs of Taiwanese daily living. Originally, Taiwanese style of clothing was part of the daily wear and attire for special and social occasions. Beginning from the 1910s, it faced intense competition from western wear and was gradually replaced, though not totally taken over, by foreign fashion. As seen in the life of Ng Ong-seng and Chang Li-jun, Taiwanese style of clothing re-emerged in the second half of the 1910s and was seen at birthday celebrations, memorial ceremonies for Confucius, funerals and other occasions. Obviously, Taiwanese attire was worn at traditional and cultural functions. In particular, as seen in how Lin Hsien-t'ang and Ng Ong-seng dressed themselves, robe had become a symbol of their being Taiwanese and their cultural inclination, thus acquiring a special local, traditional and cultural significance. In addition, there existed a multicultural phenomenon with the mix-and-match of Taiwanese clothing, western fashion and the Japanese kimono. In view of the above, Taiwanese under the Japanese rule seemed to embrace new fashion from overseas while cherishing the traditional style of clothing.