萬髮俱齊:網巾與明代社會文化的幾個面向

Holding the Hair Neat: Wang－jin and Some Cultural Dimentions of the Ming Dynasty

網巾是明代成年男子用來束髮的網子，也是明初建立的冠服制度中最具朝代象微的巾服之一。由於「人無貴賤階裏之」，網巾也是明代最沒有社會等級區分功能的服飾，從明代禮制、服飾消費或日常社交等方面，處處可見網巾的蹤跡。因此網巾雖小，其承載的明代社會文化意涵卻極為豐厚。「加網巾」是明人行冠禮時不可少的儀節，網巾不僅與「束髮」兼有形式（戴巾）與意義（成年）的連結，也成為明人生命禮俗中不可或缺的物件。從網巾的消費來看，明代網巾的流通，有些是婦女自織自售，有些是由巾舖販賣，有些則由商販兜售。同時，網巾雖是禮制上不具社會等級象徵的日常小物，但透過明代商業化的洗禮，亦有以此標奇炫富者。明清鼎革，清廷厲行薙髮與易服，堅持戴網巾兼具反抗「薙髮」與「改服」的雙重意涵，因此，入清以後，網巾的明代認同象徵顯得特別鮮明。一方面，網巾在清初剷除南明「餘孽」的具體案件中，與令牌、刀鎗等同視為謀逆之「證物」；另一方面，明清之際士人的抗清，往往以裹著網巾宣示「復明」的意志。明清鼎革的忠烈傳記，堅持戴網巾與抗清殉節常是故事中的重要元素，透過清初李世熊（1600~1684）所撰〈畫網巾先生傳〉的傳抄與流布，網巾從日常束髮之物轉化成明代認同符號的意義乃更為彰顯。

Wang-jin was a net with which male adults set the hair together and it was also one of the most symbolic costume norms established in the early Ming China. Therefore, we can find it in several aspects of Ming society, such as monarchical regimes, clothing consumption and social life. After the Ming regime was overthrown, Wang-jin evolved into the strongest symbol, holding the Ming loyalists together and forming the former empire's imagination. From the view of being a vital role in the adult ritual, Wang-jin had practical and definitional linkage with 'setting hair together', which was one of the necessities of the Ming people's lifelong custom. From the view of the manufacture and consumption of Wang-jin, some of them were made by women, some were sold in the stores, and others were vended by merchants. On the other hand, although Wang-jin was one of the commodities for Ming's male adults, the materials and making procedures of it ranged from extravagance to simpleness. The rich wore fine Wang-jin made of high-quality materials to display their status and fortune. After the Qing dynasty ruled, Wang-jin became much more extraordinary for its meaning of nation-identity. First, it became the 'evidence' of dynastic transition, the Ming loyalists used to wear Wang-jin to declare their political identity. In the loyalists' biographies, we can find that insisting on wearing Wang-jin and no-surrender tactics against the Qing's rulers are both significant factors in the biographies of Ming loyalists.